JAPAN: Small Town - In, Around, and on the Way to Miyakomachi, Isesaki, Gunma

10/08/2020

Isesaki City is a mid-sized city in Gunma prefecture (relative to other cities in Gunma, at least) surrounding the intersection of the Ryoma and Tobu JR lines. With Ota to the east and the capital, Maebashi, to the west, Isesaki sits on the north Ryoma line turn towards Kiryu. If you reside in or have visited any of these places, you've likely passed through Isesaki City. With arguably the largest attraction in the city (Kezoji Park) still labeled "temporarily closed" due to COVID-19, what other places would you still consider taking a day trip to Isesaki for? I'd like to take this opportunity to talk about the mix of excitement and tranquility that can be found in, around, and on the way to Miyakomachi - a western neighborhood of Isesaki.

On the Way...

Like most cities in Gunma prefecture, Isesaki is personal transport driven. Although public transport exists, it is somewhat infrequent compared to larger cities. So, exploring by car is best. If you're hoping to see the sights other ways, welcome to my every day. As a fairly new resident of Isesaki, I get around mainly by bicycle. If the elements inconvenience this, I take the bus. Taxis are also available at the station.

Bus - if you're coming through Isesaki Station, the commuter buses have an interesting system. Basically, you pay a flat rate of ¥200, receive a printed receipt with the date, and you're able to use this receipt to hop on and off the bus throughout the day - as many times as you like. To get to Miyakomachi, you can take the Isesaki Station South Cyclic Bus or Tozai Shuttle Bus to the Seibu Mall bus stop. Before that, I recommend using your magical receipt to temporarily hop off at Hommachi Niban to visit Isesaki Shrine. 

Isesaki Shrine - The current shrine was built in 1848 with the main hall built in 1945. However, some literature suggests that the shrine grounds have been around since the 1300's. The shrines' outer wooden walls are meticulously carved with the façade of the main hall also consisting of a lot of beautiful detail. Upon close inspection, the shrine seems to tell a great story. While the purpose of prayer at Isesaki Shrine can be limitless, the most common subjects here tend to concern childbirth and travel/road safety. The wooden plane propeller above the main hall entrance assists in this. You can even pay to have you car blessed!

Around...

Heading towards Miyakomachi, the Shimin Byoin Kita (North Municipal Hospital) bus stop will put you right outside of Seibu Park. It's also at this stop that you can take the bus labeled たまりん伊勢崎直行便 (Tamarin Isesaki Chokko-bin) to the SAVE ON Iizuka stop for a charming stroll through the rice fields. There are also some fields worth viewing near the Hyper Mall Mae bus stop. This is also a more frequent bus route and closer to the inner city.

The Two River Parks - The entrance to Seibu Park is almost directly across from the hospital stop. Here, you can enjoy a large green space of family fun water geysers, fog vents (pretty cool for anyone), and a fine place to view cherry blossoms in the spring. All the more, you can take an attractive cable footbridge across the Hirose River to the neighboring park - Raburiba Water Park Unuki. While also another fine place to gaze at spring flowers, this green space consists of a small forest trail, freshly cut pathways to the riverside, and a croquet course. You can often find painters scattered around the lawn searching for their next landscape. It's a fine getaway, and a great entry point for one of my favorite parts of the area.

The River Track - From the HWY 354 river-crossing to the Momonoki River, this riverside walking/biking path is over five kilometers long, running mostly east to west, and still continues up the Momonoki to northern Maebashi. No matter how far you take this path, it's sure to be an unwinding experience the entire way. The south-side river path is easily accessible from either river park, and there are several entrances throughout Miyakomachi. Some sections of this track (behind the Isesaki Auto Race Track suggested) also offer a grand view of Mt. Akagi on a clear day. 

The Rice Fields - Gunma is a rather rural prefecture in general, but the rice fields of Tamamura are particularly breathtaking (if you're into that sort of thing). All around the area, narrow roads cut through the fields and offer panoramic four-ways of which to soak in the light wind and wide sky. Often, cranes scatter the fields hunting for snakes and insects. Walk around with care, of course. The paddies themselves are farm property and should be left alone. Some of the areas near the main roads are without sidewalks, so be careful. For a photographer, this is a nice place to spend an hour. 

In...

While it seems all roads in Miyakomachi lead to the race track, the surrounding area is full of local conveniences, quality shopping, and good food. A good base for exploration would probably be the bus stop at Seibu Mall.

The Race Track Isesaki Auto Race Track, from April to September, hosts horse races and motorbike races for the gamblers of the area. Whether you're into trying your luck or not, the races are free! Simply walk into the stadium, take a seat, and enjoy the show. Food and drinks are often available, and upper box seating is affordable if you're looking for a more intimate experience. Still, the general admission seats offer a nice view of the entire track. Betting tickets are purchasable either at the gate or in the track. Prepare to have your temperature checked upon entry. Although I don't gamble myself, my fiancée and I like to pick riders and bet dinner on whoever's rider comes closest to first. I'd recommend checking the website calendar if you're coming from afar. 

Ryu Shrine - Only accessible via the river walking/biking path, Ryu Shrine lies beside a river bank a visible distance from the race track. Although quite small, the summer months see this shrine full of ebony jewelwings (small black dragonflies that resemble fairies) that dance around the falling dead leaves and twisted vines. Given the amount of cherry blossom trees along the riverside and the shrine path, this writer can be certain that it will be a special place to visit in the spring.

Based on local word of mouth, part of the shrine seems to be dedicated to the Urashima Taro fairytale, as there's a stone statue depicting the protagonist fisherman riding a turtle at the end of the shrine path. Perhaps there's more to understand here, but the area itself makes for a relaxing afternoon destination. 

Food

While I wouldn't suggest ignoring the many amazing takoyaki stands in the area, here a few spots that have stuck in my memory since arriving.

  • 広島流お好み焼 大福 Hiroshima Style Okonomiyaki Daifuku (okonomiyaki): As a former resident of Hiroshima City, having a restaurant like this in the area was a great relief. Just to the west of Seibu Park, this restaurant offers a Hiroshima delicacy that tastes very much like being in the prefecture itself. If you like okonomiyaki but have never tried this version (or just miss it), this place is a 10 out of 10!
  • 会津ばんだいらーめん宮子店 Aizu Bandai (ramen): Not far from the race track, this ramen shop offers a variety of ramen types and sets that are sure to meet your craving. While I'd recommend the spicy miso, there isn't a wrong choice here. All of the expected sides are offered, as well. The tiny roulette games at the tables are also entertaining.
  • 茶屋草木万里野伊勢崎店 Teahouse Kusagi Marino (Italian/Asian): A little to the southwest of Seibu Mall, this restaurant is low lit and feels like an ideal date spot. While the main push here seems to be Italian, the restaurant serves a large variety of Asian cuisine. The menu consists of Vietnamese, Balinese, Japanese, and some Chinese as well. For someone who typically dislikes the way Italian food is prepared in Japan, this place offers a great deal of delectable pasta. In fact, I've enjoyed everything I've tried from here. 

In a Nutshell

While Miyakomachi probably usually isn't much more than a confusing bit of kanji on the map of tourist focused on finding hot springs, the area offers what some adventurers would often consider "real Japan" - a place that only the natives experience and understand. Miyakomachi's main attraction may be a race track, but outside of that bettors circle, life is slow. It's clear that the people that live in Miyakomachi have lived here for a long time. It's a heartwarming atmosphere with incredibly kind residents, and it's a place I'm happy, at least for now, to call home. 


Check the MAP PINPOINTS button the homepage for Google Maps markers of the places mentioned in this blog!

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