JAPAN: In and Around Hiroshima

01/26/2020

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You're heading to Hiroshima! That's awesome! I guess you're planning to stay here for a few days? See the sites? Peace Park? Miyajima? Cool. You absolutely should! If I may, I'd like to suggest a few more spots in and around the city that would be regretfully missed if you ever found out about them through future research. There's so much more to be explored than just the first few pages of the brochure. Take it from a long-time resident!

Initial Points of Interest

Atomic Bomb Dome
Atomic Bomb Dome
Peace Park Cenotaph
Peace Park Cenotaph

Miyajima/Itsukushima

Itsukushima, often referred to as Miyajima, is an island to the east of Hatsukaichi. The island is most well-known for its "floating" red gate often referred to as The Great Torii. If you're reading this near the publishing date, you may be disappointed to hear that the torii is currently covered, and it will be covered until after the Tokyo Olympics due to maintenance. I recommend researching that before taking the boat over.

After taking a walk through Itsukushima Shrine, walk up to the Five Story Pagoda and have a seat in the Senjokaku hall - an old, peaceful wooden pavilion dedicated to decorative tatami mats. For one of the most beautiful views in all of Japan, take the rope way (or hike it yourself) up to the summit of Mt. Misen. Although the rope way won't take you to the official summit, the landing spot of the car is nearly just as miraculous as the top. Still, hike your way up there if you're interested in a more 360 version. 

Make sure you try age momiji manju, or fried maple leaf-shaped cakes stuffed with a variety of choices, before you leave. Lastly, there are an incredible amount of deer roaming the island. If you see them eating plastic or a map, take it from them! The deer of Nara are suffering heavily from these circumstances, and it would be best for the deer of Miyajima to not end up like many plastic-bellied marine life.

Take a JR to Miyajimaguchi or a direct ferry from Peace Park.

Peace Park

Let's get the big ones out of the way. There's already a ton of information online about these sites, so I'll just add this: don't miss them! Peace Park and the Atomic Bomb Dome are not to be taken for granted. Thousands of people wander through the park and the Peace Memorial Museum weekly, and rightfully so. The museum has been open since 1955 (only ten years after the bomb) and has since housed hundreds of artifacts left behind from that infamous event. One can wander around the dome for hours and still find some new area of twisted metal in which to fix their gaze on. The park itself is full of interesting installations. One of the more popular ones is The Children's Peace Monument dedicated to Sadako Sasaki - a child protagonist made globally known by the Sadako and the Thousand Paper Cranes story book most westerners read in grade school. Stroll the park's outer sidewalks to make sure you see all of the smaller installations as well. It's also important to check the museum event schedule for the opportunity to see and hear a hibakusha (atomic bomb survivor) give a testimony. Events like these usually occur on the lower floors of the main exhibit building. 

Before you leave, stop by Orizuru Tower to get a nice roof-top view of the park from above. This is also an ideal place for souvenirs and for one-on-one assistance with crafting a paper crane

Peace Park can be accessed by street car, bus, or taxi. For public transport, I recommend taking any of these to Hondori to enter from the dome side. Of course, admission to the park is always free.

Itsukushima Shrine
Itsukushima Shrine
View from Mt. Misen
View from Mt. Misen

Some of the Lesser-Knowns

Hiroshima Castle
Hiroshima Castle
Kintai Bridge
Kintai Bridge
Onomichi
Onomichi
Sandankyo Gorge
Sandankyo Gorge

Extras (in no particular order)

  • Tomonoura: a beautiful, ancient port south of Fukuyama famous for being the setting of Miyazaki's "Ponyo"
  • Okunoshima: better known as Rabbit Island, it's accessible from Tadano-Umi or Mihara
  • Takehara: often referred to as Little Kyoto, it's famous for it's old-town streets and sake breweries 
  • Saijo: one of the most famous cities in Japan for sake, the Sake Festival every October is highly recommended

Hiroshima Castle

Believe it or not, people do leave without ever visiting Hiroshima Castle. Sure, it's not one of the twelve-originals, but it's still a castle! A replica of the previously bombed, Hiroshima Castle was officially rebuilt in 1959. It's surrounded by a wide mote full of hungry koi and passenger tour boats. For a small fee, you can enter the castle and learn about the former clans of the area. You can also dress-up in samurai armor and take pictures on the first floor. A grand view of the city can also be seen from the top. The castle grounds are a people place for local events and art installations. The Hiroshima Food Festival happens every year here in front of the Gokoku Shrine. Try not to miss a trip to the castle! The castle is a short walk north from Hondori Station.

Iwakuni/Kintai Bridge

Although Iwakuni is actually in Yamaguchi Prefecture, it is only a handful of JR stops from Hiroshima Station or a 15 minute Shinkansen ride. Without a doubt, the main attraction is Kintai Bridge. The five-arch bridge leads to the mountain-side Kikko Park - full of cherry blossom trees and open fields for children to run around. This is area is particularly popular for hanami, or cherry blossom viewing, but it's beautiful all year round. Take the rope way up to the tiny castle atop the mountain for a beautiful view of the city. Take a bus from Iwakuni Station or a taxi headed for Kintaikyo.

Onomichi

One of my favorite small cities in Japan, Onomichi has become notably famous due to various viral videos about two cats trying to enter an art museum but are consistently denied access by a kind security guard. The video isn't a terrible representation of Onomichi, however. Annually, there is a Cat Festival on the central mountain. Face painting, games, cat dedications, and cats! Also, the Onomichi Lantern Festival is not one to be missed if you're visiting Hiroshima in the fall. Finally, don't leave without trying the ramen! Onomichi is only a 40 minute Shinkansen ride from Hiroshima Station, but if you're looking for cheaper, it's only an hour and a half via JR.

Sandankyo Gorge

An hour and a half bus ride from Hiroshima Station, Sandankyo is tucked into Akiota in northern Hiroshima prefecture. Hike the clearly marked pathways aside the aqua blue river packed with waterfalls and river-carved cliffs that lead to a three-tiered waterfall. You'll have to take a relaxing one-manned ferry to make it through the whole trail, and make sure you stop by the small restaurant for some freshly caught river fish on a skewer once you make it to the other side. As a resident of Hiroshima City, Sandankyo is one of my favorite escapes. If you love nature, this shouldn't be missed (especially if you're visiting in autumn). When you leave, stop by the entrance hotel for a quick dip in an inexpensive hot springKayaking is also a seasonal option. 

Food

辛く痺れる味噌辣麺 鬼神
辛く痺れる味噌辣麺 鬼神

Ramen

  • 陽気大手町店 : famous and inexpensive Hiroshima ramen shop (with easy order ticket machine)
  • 辛く痺れる味噌辣麺 鬼神 : spicy miso ramen often with a crown of pork
  • Tori no Suke: chicken ramen with soup-less Taiwanese noodle options (with easy order ticket machine)
  • Okkundou Mazemen: delicious soup-less ramen
  • 九州ラーメン八起 : tonkotsu ramen shop owned and run by a tiny old lady

American/Italian

  • 3 TREE: steak, pasta, and seafood done the very best in the city
  • Mangia: a small pasta shop owned and run by one man

Vietnamese

  • Ao Baba: one of the most popular international restaurants in the city and rightfully so

Indian

  • Raj Curry: exceptional curry shop with curry ramen
  • Ganesh: several in the city, genuine Indian cuisine

When it comes to food, Hiroshima City is most famous for okonomiyaki. If you're unaware, okonomiyaki is a dish typically made in front of you that is almost completely customizable. Sometimes referred to as a "noodle pancake," Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is made of cabbage, bacon, noodles, and your choice of seafood and toppings not limited to things like cheese or even kimchi. There are still a number of other amazing foods in the city if that's not quite your thing. Allow me to formulate a list of my personal favorite restaurants in the city (not just my favorite, but also top-rated). We'll divide this by Japanese and international restaurants. All listed restaurants offer either English ticket machines or English menus (copy and paste for names in Japanese). 

Okonomiyaki 

  • 広島乃風 平和公園店 : excellent shop just near Peace Park
  • ふみちゃん流川店 : lots and lots of topping options
  • 五一 : wonderful local okonomiyaki shop

Sushi

  • Nonta Sushi: fresh conveyor belt sushi, but only by order 
  • Sushi Tei: a local loved sushi shop with high quality seafood

Korean

  • Hanmiga: genuine Korean options done with passion

Indonesian

  • Warung Matahari: amazing Balinese food with a unique atmosphere

Chinese

  • 楼蘭 : small Chinese dinner with nice options

Japanese Curry

  • Sun Curry: the best in the city (with easy order ticket machine)


Check the MAP PINPOINTS button on the homepage for Google Maps markers of the places mentioned in this blog!  

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