THAILAND: A 36 Hour Itinerary
I had some time. I had a short weekend to occupy myself while my girlfriend was at a conference in Macau. Being a little jealous of her time away, I decided to Google the cheapest flight out of Japan. Sure enough, it was Bangkok! This was my chance to fulfill the dying wish of a family member, but more on that later. All I knew was that my time in Thailand would be extremely limited. How limited? 36 hours! To my surprise, I accomplished a great deal! Here's what I did and what I would recommend you do too if you find yourself with a big layover in the area.
Day 1: Wats and Palaces
Let's get right to it. I flew into Don Mueang International Airport that summer afternoon with only a backpack. I grabbed the first bus (although I could have also taken a train) I saw that was heading downtown. I was staying at Dewan Bangkok for one night. The hotel is beautiful, conveniently located, and affordable. It was an excellent base for heading into the popular sites of the city. I put my bag down and headed right for The Grand Palace. The grounds are enormous, but the sites are mesmerizing. The architecture is littered with gold and emeralds that all glitter in the sunlight. Although crowded, the palace is the place to be for good reason. You could spend hours here if you really wanted to take in the details (or catch a traditional Khon performance). Once you're in, take your time. Also, guard your belongings. There are signs everywhere warning visitors of pickpockets. Be sure to avoid the many scams that tuk tuk (small rickshaw) drivers try to yell out about the palace being closed. Know the hours of the sites, and have a good idea of where you're going. Still, take advantage of the convenience of tuk tuks when you need them (don't forget to haggle for all street vendor goods and tuk tuk services).
After an hour or two of strolling the grounds, I headed out the west exit to the nearest ferry port to catch a boat to Wat Arun. The ports are usually crowded and will have English speaking guides to help you navigate ticket purchases. It's a good idea to already have your destination in mind, but check the map before buying if you need to. The ferry system can take you lots of places!
Trying to use my time wisely, I knew I wanted to visit Wat (a place of worship) Arun before the sun had set. Only two ports down the river, the boat made a slow approach to the massive wat. It's gorgeous from all angles. I absolutely loved my time here! Walk the area, climb it, grab a fresh coconut, and relax. There are a few other neat little wats in the area, so strolling around is encouraged. Also, there are many printed photos of the king hanging in these areas. Remember not to do anything that could be deemed offensive near these photos. That's a BIG no-no.
The night ended with dinner at Khao San Road - a very popular street for tourists. I also came here with a mission to eat bugs. Check the video at the end of this post to see if I was successful (I was).
Day 2: Old Capital of Siam
I was instructed by some hotel staff in the early morning to buy a train ticket to Ayutthaya from a travel agency. I recommend that you NOT do this. The one I visited tried to tell me that tickets were sold out for the day in an attempt to lure me into taking one of their boat tours. Just head to Bangkok Railway Station (sometimes referred to as Hua Lamphong Station), and buy a ticket from the ticket counter. Any class will do. There's also an inexpensive luggage storage service here that I strongly recommend using if you need it. Note: this train can also take you to the airport.
Any way, Ayutthaya! It's been a dream of mine to visit this place. As a kid, I wanted to revisit the iconic scenes from the first Mortal Kombat film. As an adult... the same, but with a much greater interest in the history. I bought a return ticket upon arrival and waved down a tuk tuk to haggle with for a four-hour tour. They'll be plentiful outside the station. I recommend this over bicycle rental. Many of these sites are many kilometers from each other. Renting a tuk tuk turned out to be truly invaluable.
My first stop was at Wat Phra Si Sanphet. It's nearly impossible to get a good picture of all three of these massive wats in one photo (maybe that was just me). They're jaw-dropping! The wats sit next to old ruins filled with decapitated Buddha statues (historically done by the Burmese) that are sure to keep your attention. This is one location that shouldn't be missed. Check out the Gold Buddha Statue inside Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit while you're there.
Next was Wat Chai Watthanaram. This is another one that really shouldn't be missed. Right off the river, the grounds here have been well maintained. I think this one is better experienced than explained (they all are, but we're here). It's famously the entrance of "The Temple of Light" from Mortal Kombat.
Wat Maha That is another important stop. Although the ancient wats of this area are also stunning, the "Buddha Head Embedded in a Banyan Tree" seems to steal the show. As a lost Buddha head from one of the decapitated statues, it was eventually discovered having grown into the roots of a banyan tree. You may find yourself staring at this thing for a while. Wat Ratchaburana was also a fantastic final stop and the largest of many of the wat sites. Make it there, too!
I spent the rest of the evening on a train back to Bangkok Railway Station and at Blue House just east of the station where I had a place to take a shower and relax before my midnight flight. Just before I left Ayutthaya, I had some time to make a Facebook post. It was an important trip for me. Here's why.
Nearly a decade ago, I lost a very dear family member. My uncle Bobby was a rather soft-spoken, gentle dude. He liked cookies, the beach, and money. Although he never was very wealthy, he liked to pretend he was. He wore expensive calogne, watches, and had a job as a limousine driver. He also loved helping people - particularly foreigners. I grew up meeting many curious people from other countries that would live with him. He would invite them into his home, give them jobs, and form bonds. He seemed to form aquaintances with everyone, but not many close friendships. He didn't open up often, but there was one moment that I remember in particular when he did with me. He was knee-deep in a battle with prostate cancer, and he said to me, "if I manage to survive this, I want to take an Asian trip." I wasn't thinking too much about Asia at the time, but I remember that his most recent foreign housemate had been a guy from Thailand. Given his fascinations that year, I knew that was the first country he was hoping to visit. He didn't make it much longer after that month.
The day following his passing, I went to his home and collected some of his things. One of those things being this brown leather satchel I found in his closet. I took it home where it sat in my own closet for a few years before I began using it during my final years of college. Exactly one week before my senior finals began, I was playing a gig at Leo's (which I hear is called Glory Bound now) when someone smashed my passenger-side window and took my bag. Thinking I was totally screwed, many of my professors and peers jumped to my aid. I was so grateful for that. I graduated that month, but I was certain I'd never see that bag again.
Being as it's pictured here, one can assume that I did indeed get it back. Five months later, an employee at The Juke Joint found it under the building with all my books still inside. Incredible, right? A year later, I decided to bring his bag with me to my grandmother's funeral in D.C. While browsing the gift shop of the Smithsonian, an elephant badge advertising the museum caught my eye. I pinned it to the corner of my bag, and "Adventure Bag" was born!
Since that day, I've added pins and keychains to it from most of the places I've visited around the world. Yesterday, I was able to fulfill it's original mission by taking it on an "Asian trip" to Bangkok. Today, A.B. and I got to visit Ayutthaya - one of Thailands original, now ancient, capitals. This bag, although just a bag, has inspired me greatly over the past few years. My uncle's memory has shown me a purpose I never even knew I wanted. Every day, I catch myself experiencing the sudden euphoria of slowly becoming a citizen of the world, and I can genuinely feel the importance of that. As I sit here at Ayuttaya station, a little choked up, waiting for my train back to Bangkok, I sit astounded in understanding one universal truth:
Everywhere is someone's every day.
The living and breathing beasts of this planet are not quiet tumblers in a forest that no one is around to hear. Everyone experiences every moment; not just the ones that we're only immediately aware of. Not just your fellow countrymen. Everyone.
My hometown has never looked as sweet as it has from such a great distance, and I look forward to visiting again soon with an adult heart. Love to all.
Thanks for reading! Here's a poorly edited cellphone video of my trip. Take care!
P.S. DON'T ride the elephants! Thanks.
Check the MAP PINPOINTS button on the homepage for Google Maps markers of the places mentioned in this blog!