Having been the capital for millennia, Seoul still shows off its colors in the forms of temples and palaces. I found the colorful ancient architecture particularly unique coming from Japan (where a multitude of bright colors aren't typically used on places of worship). One of the first places you may encounter an example of this would be at the Changdeokgung Palace. Like some of the other over 600 year old Joseon palaces, there are narrow walkways through open courtyards that lead to immaculately sculpted facades. I recommend strolling around here while you wait for a Huwon, the palace garden, tour. We had to move on early, but we really wanted to see the garden. It's important to know that joining a tour is the only way to see the garden.  

Probably the most notable of these palaces is the Gyeongbokgung Palace - the main palace and largest of them. Like the others, the main south entrance is surrounded by a massively beautiful gate. It's one of the Eight Gates of Seoul that still stand around the city - most of them solo. You'll find a grand one at the entrance of Changdeokgung Palace as well. Some of the more memorable monuments in particular were Geunjeongjeon (throne hall) and the Gyeonghoeru Pavilion - a banquet hall that sits in the center of a pond. The former queen's residence, Gyotaejeon Hall, was also a wonderfully colorful piece of old architecture. Fans of the Netflix series "Kingdom" might also experience a special kind of awe on these grounds. Take a glimpse at the architecture of the The National Folk Museum of Korea before you leave. Although a newer building, it blends in beautifully. Both of these palaces can be conquered over a few hours, so keep the rest of your day open if you're starting in the early morning.

I can't recommend making a trip to Bukchon Hanok Village enough. Although a still active neighborhood with people residing in the old houses, walking the narrow streets through the traditional village is a must while in the city. Located between the two main palaces, the streets leading to the village are lined with shops offering hourly or daily hanbok (traditional Korean dress) rentals for men and women. Just make sure you keep it down during your alleyway photo shoots. There will be signs everywhere reminding visitors that people still live in the village houses and to be respectful. Make sure you check out the view from the lookout point while you're there. It's actually pretty high up!

First of all, Korean food is incredible. There's no denying that. Yes, most options are at least somewhat spicy, but there's still something for everyone. As a fan of spicy food, I felt most at home in Seoul's night markets, particularly Gwangjang Market. We ate at several amazing Korean restaurants throughout the city, but nothing quite like what we found at the forever bustling Gwangjang. We weren't actively seeking out Cho Yonsoon's Gohyang Kalguksu Stall, but as fans of the Netflix series "Street Food," we were beyond stoked to stumble across her stall. After some nervous pacing, we decided to bravely step in line for two seats. We waited about twenty minutes to get sandwiched between other determined foodies, and it was so totally worth it. Her knife-cut noodles and kimchi dumplings lived up to the hype. She was firing them out to hungry customers at lightning speed, and she placed each dish in front of each customer with a smile. While cooking or glancing at the forming lines, her face was full of focus. Every other look up was dedicated to a chuckle or full-on laughter. The previous Christmas in Taiwan, I started a silly traditional of wearing a Santa hat on Christmas Day, which was when we visited her stall. She found it exceptionally hilarious to be serving "Santa," and thus I was, for that small time, dubbed as such by the lady herself. I'd like to think it was special for the both of us, but it certainly was for me. We managed to check out Namdaemun Market on our final day, as well. With a lot more to offer than just food, Namdaemun was also its own adventure. I remember the chijimi (a kind of Korean pancake) being particularly memorable from that market. Never be afraid to try something unfamiliar. 

Getting a chance to peak into North Korea was my main goal in coming to Seoul. Before arriving, we booked a half-day DMZ tour through Viator, and we were pleased with the price. We did receive an unfortunate email before we left for Korea, however. Our chance to visit the JSA (Joint Secuirty Area where the north and south is divided through a series of small meeting rooms) was called off due to a strange disease going around North Korea (connection to the current COVID-19 pandemic is unknown). There wasn't much detail to be provided, but we were offered the tour to the remaining areas none the less. So, we agreed to still take the tour. We were picked up by bus at a metro exit early in the morning and headed directly to the Bridge of Freedom - once a railway bridge that repatriated POW's took returning from the north. It was also the site of an intense firefight, and the evidence is highlighted with many marked bullet holes in the bridge columns. Now, the bridge rests beside Imjingak - a park with war monuments and places of prayer for those who lost loved ones or who still have friends and family trapped on the other side. The sealed off entry ways of the bridge are covered with colorful prayer ribbons dedicated to those that can no longer be visited. The scene was set that morning with an intense fog, and it couldn't have been more appropriate. Without even having to be told, there wasn't a tourist there that didn't feel it necessary to keep their voices to a whisper. On the bright side, if the bridge ever does reopen to invite a resident exchange, the first western meal that could be had by North Koreans would be Popeyes, as the famous Louisiana chicken chain has a restaurant in the park. I found that amusing. 

Before heading to the War Memorial of Korea museum (a must-do and probably a final stop on every available DMZ tour), we stopped at the Odusan Unification Tower. The tower sits behind a narrow river division of the south and north. Here, on a clear day, you can see into a southern village of North Korea. The provided photo might tell you that it was a rather misty morning, and it was. Through binoculars, we could see North Korean guard boxes, houses, and a school. Perhaps on a clearer day, you can see commuters and a Kim Il-sung memorial. A reason to visit again, I suppose. As an American, it's currently impossible to visit North Korea, but I hope to get the chance to in my lifetime. Many other nationalities can still take a guided tour through the country. Needless to say that you'd have to first consider whether or not it would be worth the risk, but the opportunity is still often taken. I'll keep my hopes high for a future reunification. I still gaze at my foggy photo of North Korea often. 

I've never chosen a travel destination based on its metropolitan skyline, but my perception of Seoul wasn't entirely correct. It's a city full of prosperity and still carefully writing its own history. There's never been a country at war more carefree than South Korea, and I found being in that environment unique and exciting. Like Japan, I felt invited as a tourist - never threatened. We embarrassed ourselves more than once in the city, and we were always greeted with a helping hand. Even if it were nothing else, it's a great hub for seeing other parts of the country or other parts of Asia. I look forward to making it through here again someday, and I'm happy to hear about (at least at the point of this post) Korea conquering their earlier corona issue. The whole world feels that struggle still, and I hope the best for everyone in this insane time in history. Until you can safely travel again, stay curious.